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反包毛巾機生產針織天鵝絨的常見規格及注意事項
[ 發布時間:2015-03-24 10:00:26  訪問量:2598  字體: ]

1.  天鵝絨名稱之解讀

The origin of the Name “Velour”

 

天鵝絨,英文名knitted velour 據說在俄文中有柔軟,溫柔的意思

Knitted velour as heard in russian means soft and gentle.

天鵝絨絕大部分的是用反包毛圈針織大圓機織的.梭織有一種絲絨產品亦稱之為天鵝絨,需要加以區分。

Most of the Knitted velour was produced by Reverse terry Circular Knitting Machine. Knitted velour is easily to be confused with woven velvet.

2。棉天鵝絨和CVC天鵝絨之生產簡介

Pure Cotton Velour and CVC(cotton/poly) velour

1.棉天鵝絨常見為毛圈紗32S+地紗滌絲DTY100D.這個組合最為常見.也有做比較輕的克重

The common composition for cotton velour is terry yarn 32s cotton with ground yarn DTY 100D.

或特殊要求的毛圈用35S,38S,地紗用75D,150D等.

Sometimes, we saw light weight cotton velour using finer 35s and 38s for terry yarn and 75D/150D dty as ground yarn.

常見CVC天鵝絨規格:32S+100DCVC天鵝絨210---275G/M2

CVC velour composition   32S+100D  Density: 210~275gsm

           40S+75D36FCVC天鵝絨185-210G/M2

                       40s+75D 36F CVC velour 185~210gsm

常見密絲絨鉆石絨規格:75DFDY+100D36F  165-190G/M2

Fine Crushed velour : 75D FDY+100D 36F  165~190gsm

常見氨綸密絲絨金鉆絨規格:75DFDY+100D+30D 220-290G/M2

Fine crushed velour with spandex 75D FDY+100D+30D 220~290gsm

一般市場上做天鵝絨的棉紗多為普紗或高配棉的普紗.偶然見過昆山某企業用精梳紗做的天鵝絨非常漂亮,但是成本相對高很多了.

Most market knitted velour using carded cotton yarn, a combed cotton yarn will produce a fancy velour fabric but also increase the cost a lot.

    解讀一些常見的稱謂誤區。

Common misunderstanding about velour fabric.

    全棉天鵝絨-----需要明白是絨面全棉的(地紗是化纖,多為滌綸)

Pure cotton velour--- Pls note only terry loop is made of 100% cotton yarn, the ground yarn is 100% polyester.

    CVC80/20天鵝絨-----32S+100D坯布剛剛下機之半成品是為CVC80/20左右,然經過染整之最終成品僅有CVC68/32----CVC72/28左右。因在中間的剪毛過程中均為棉質毛圈被剪損。

CVC 80/20 velour---32S+100D knitted velour, the grey fabric is CVC 80/20 with no problem. However, under proper dyeing& finishing, the finished fabric is between CVC 68/32 to CVC 72/28. Because all the yarn lost is the cotton terry loop was sheared during the producing or knitted velour.

    每次和一些新手解釋這些,都要花很多口舌。[原創]圖解針織面料知識之------針織天鵝絨

2.一般的毛圈高度在2.5MM-3.0MM之間.毛太低,剪毛不容易剪開,損耗大,;毛太高,剪毛損

The height of the terry loop is around 2.5mm~3.0mm, shorter terry loop will be hard to be sheared, a longer terry loop will result to a higher yarn lost, also a long sheared terry loop not easy to stand up.

耗大,而且毛圈不容易直立.

3.有些公司要求毛圈紗和地絲的捻向相反,以改善緯斜.但是依3Z看來,并不是太重要,因為天鵝絨

 

的彈性和組織行態,起決定作用的是地紗,而地紗是滌綸的,很容易在定型的時候克服緯斜.而且一般反

Some knitting mills may request terry yarn and ground yarn has a different direction of twist to improve skewness. Actually, the Reverse terry knitting machine has fewer feeders, 30”x48F OR 30”x44F, which not result in serious skewness. Also the skewness is easily solved during fabric setting because the ground yarn is polyester.

包機路數較少,緯斜并不明顯30"的48路和44路比較多見,26"的42路比較多見.

4.棉紗的捻度要求非常均勻,如果某幾路的捻度過大或過小,容易造成該路毛圈的豎立程度異于其他.

The request of twist of cotton yarn should be even, some of the feeders has higher or smaller twist will result the terry loop in some part different with the others. Therefore, a longer or shorter terry loop will not be sheared or completely sheared.

在剪毛時候容易造成剪不到或剪不清.

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